Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Deep South

We spent our last couple of nights in Florida inland at Jupiter Springs in the Ocala National Forrest.

Tropical oasis

Is this spring water good for my skin..?
We were in a tropical oasis swimming in crystal clear water of the freshwater spring...it couldn't get any better than this.

Juniper Springs
We decided to have a relaxing day and as we leisurely walked along the nature trail we kept seeing paddlers in rental canoes making their way along Juniper Creek. This had us racing up to the concession stand where we found there was a 7.5 mile canoe trail and if we left in the next hour we could get picked up at the end.

The clear spring water of Juniper Creek
Once again we were off on another adventure. The flow of the Creek made paddling easy and every now and then we could see the water bubbling up through the sandy bottom. Around half way so much water was bubbling up that it created a series of rapids giving us a white water experience that was lots of fun.

There were lots of fallen trees to limbo under and narrow twists and turns to navigate.

Tropical wilderness

Strangler vines
Even a rain squall that lasted for nearly an hour couldn’t dampen our enthusiasm. We arrived at the end after 3 hours, totally soaked but still grinning from ear to ear.

Rain...what rain

Even here the wildlife did not disappoint as we spotted nearly a dozen turtles and an alligator sunning itself on the bank as we paddled by.

I'm looking younger by the day...

C'mon there's room here for two....!
We had been in Florida for nearly a month and it was time for a change of scenery. We crossed into Georgia just as the State was experiencing some snowfall and here at the Welcome Center the high was only going to reach 57 F (13 C).


We drove to the Okefenokee Swamp (they have such cool names here) hoping for some more wildlife experiences only to find they have no camping facilities. Luckily the Laura S. Walker State Park was situated just across the road and along with camping it offered a golf course and it's resident alligators as "hazards".


We continued north to George L. Smith State Park located on a man made lake that had a covered bridge used in the past as a Grist Mill. This time we took our own kayak out on the lake and paddled around the 3 mile (5 km) marked trail as it wound it's way through densely forested Cyprus and Tupelo trees.

Weaving through the trees

A rare bit of open water

 It was quite a challenge following the blazes on the trees and a number of times we had to double back to ensure we were on the right path.

Look more trees

Setting off after lunch
The lake was teeming with slider turtles and they made us laugh as they perched on top of each other on the rare pieces of dry floating logs.

I'm not moving....


As we approached they would "slide" into the water. There was always one or two unwilling to give up their prime locations and stayed until the last second. Then as we past they would scramble back on again.

There's plenty of room for me......

We made a dash into South Carolina to visit Congaree National Park and along the way the towns we passed were very run down and appeared to be abandoned. Even the major towns we drove through were all business and not very appealing.

We arrived at the Congaree National Park to find they don't permit RV camping but luckily we were granted an exception as long as we camped in our backpacking tent. We registered for 3 nights and it promptly poured with rain on our first night.

More rain...taking shelter in Dude
The park has a very impressive 2.5 mile (4 km) boardwalk through the largest deciduous floodplain remaining in North America.

Congaree boardwalk

In the middle of the floodplains
Wildlife along the boardwalk

We had arrived just after a recent flood and many of the trails to the Congaree River were closed but it had Cedar Creek running through the middle of it with a marked canoe trail and it wasn't closed.... so yes we had to do it.

The logistics required dropping one of our bikes at one end then driving 7 miles (11 Km's) back to the launch area. The first part of the trail was nice with clear tannin coloured water and a sandy bottom.

Our first portage....
This did not last long and we soon entered the muddy water and banks of the swamp.

Paddling in the Congaree

Mud and more mud...
Due to recent flooding there were a number of log jams in the river requiring porting the kayak around.

Fun in the mud
It was a lot of fun slipping and sliding around in the mud and we both landed on our butts at least once.

Time to limbo..
In the end we portaged the kayak 7 times. Standing on the take out landing we washed most of the mud of the kayak and ourselves. Then as we got out and turned around we saw a Cottonmouth Water Moccasin swimming in the water where we had just been standing.

Cottonmouth water Moccasin

We later found out these are quite venomous. Then on the other side we saw a Brown Water snake sunning itself on a rock.

Brown snake
And to think we had been carrying the kayak through all this without shoes on.  John then left me with the snakes and rode 7 miles, into a headwind, to collect Dude while I sat in the swamp alone.

It was time to mix up our adventure and we headed back into Georgia for a "real food detour". We skirted around Atlanta with it's conjested 16 lane freeways, even at midday. The point to all this was I had found an Aussie Bakery in Marietta on Atlanta’s northern extremity.

Aussie food madness...
Ahhhh, John got to feast on a curried lamb pie followed by a vanilla slice for desert. I stocked up on Vegemite and Violet Crumble bars. We bought 2 more pies and a sausage roll to go. This should now keep us going for a few more months.

The further north we drove the colder it got. It was down to 39 F (4 C) and it rained for 24 hours on our first night at Amicalola Falls State Park.

Campground at Amiacola Falls State Park


We had heard great tales about the Appalachian Trail that traverses 2,100 m (3,379 km's) from Georgia to Maine. So we thought, lets do the first bit, a bit in the middle and then the end. That way we could say we have done the whole trail and will have the photos to prove it…… 










Space Cadets

We raced back into Key West on our bikes the morning of our departure to see the Mel Fischer treasure collection. The museum contained a diverse collection of artifacts and treasure including gold, silver and emeralds recovered from some of the numerous ships that ran aground in the Keys. The collection was very impressive but reality has meant a large number of the items recovered are for sale. 

Jewelry from the past...

Impressive silver bars

After stopping for a coffee and Key Lime Pie we then had to peddle like crazy to get back to Leo's RV Park and arrived just after our checkout time of 12 noon.


Somehow our drive along the Overseas Highway seemed a lot longer on our drive out.....maybe it was my reluctance to say farewell.




Wildlife traffic on the back roads on our way to Biscayne NP

On leaving the Keys we stopped at Biscayne National Park for a quick visit. With ferry rides to the Islands, camping, snorkeling and much more.....we decided that we'd leave exploring the islands for next time.


Biscayne NP

As we sat having a relaxing coffee we could see numerous groups of large buildings across the bay...Miami.



Miami skyline through the haze

We did not want to leave the serenity so we prolonged our stay and had lunch. We then bit the bullet and gathered courage for the drive up the east coast through Miami and Fort Lauderdale. Our bravery was at an all time high as we ventured over the causeway into Miami Beach.



Miami Beach

Talk about chaos, with a dual lane road and people everywhere the traffic was a nightmare. Not the place to take an RV so after only 1 mile and 15 minutes down the strip we were ready to leave. This was easier said than done as none of the traffic lights had left turn arrows and all intersections were congested. In the end we just hit the horn and went for it, letting others get out of our way. Needless to say we did not venture into Fort Lauderdale and spent the night at an Interstate rest area.

We left the Interstate at Melbourne and ventured back to the coastal strip. It was amazing the difference a hundred miles had made. For a work day the place was practically deserted so we followed the spit all the way to Cape Canaveral.

I remember as a kid sitting in front of a rented B&W TV watching as man first stepped on the moon. So it was with great anticipation that I was now visiting the Kennedy Space Center. On our bus tour we were fortunate to drive past the absolutely huge VAB – Vehicle Assembly Building and out to the viewing platform at LC39 – Launch Complex 39. This is where all the Space Shuttle launches took place and is now being remodeled for the next generation of spacecraft.

VAB - Vehicle Assembly Building. You can just make
out 4 regular sized "people entry" doors
 at the bottom in the center...!

Launch Complex 39

The Crawler travels at  1 mile per hour when fully loaded
Here is one of the Crawler links.

Next stop was the complex housing the unused Saturn V rocket from the abandoned Apollo 14 mission.

Appollo/Saturn V 

Wow this thing was huge, over 360 ft long. And to see how tiny the 3 man CM – Command Module and the 2 man LM – Lunar Module sections were when it was attached to the rockets made it even more remarkable. Step inside the Centre for a few minutes and, you too, will sound like a space cadet.


You can just make out the Astronaut's in the CM 


It was only now that I fully understood how it all worked


Lunar Module


Iconic moon walk


The entire space complex sits on a vast wildlife reserve. It was nice to see technology and nature existing together. As we toured around on the B-U-S bus we saw alligators and a 40 year old 11ft x 6ft Bald Eagles nest that is still in use.


Space Cadet McPherson

I don’t know where the time went but we spent the entire day gazing into space and once again being awestruck at just what a huge achievement this was.

Command Module

We had now come full circle after having visited the USS Hornet in San Francisco where we walked in the same footsteps of the Apollo II Astronauts when they made their first steps back on earth.