PROLOGUE

Here are the stats for our trip.

We were on the road for 197 nights all but 13 when we had the hire car were spent on Dude.

We drove 12,970 miles on Dude plus 2,000 miles in the hire car.

We spent 14 nights in our tent backpacking, 18 nights at Wal Mart carparks and 14 at interstate highway rest stops

Our camping costs were higher at $21 per night (ex hire car hotels). Not surprising due to the $77 cost per night at Key West, $74 in New York and $56 in Washington DC.

Our overage fuel cost per mile however was a lot less at only $0.37 per mile as fuel was 10% cheaper overall.

Our average fuel consumption of 9.36 mpg was slightly less than our previous trip despite having the spark plugs replaced before we left.

We visited 32 new states plus Washington DC to add to the 10 states we did on our last tour.

We visited 14 new National Parks to add to the 23 already visited.

We sold Dude for $21,000 with everything inside including our 2 mountain bikes. We purchased Dude for $23,000 and spent about $7,000 on servicing, repairs and upgrades. We had used Dude for at least 400 nights (not including weekend trips) in our 3.6 years and had put 31,000 miles on the clock.

To put this in perspective Dude only cost $25 per night or .33 cents per mile.

One door closes and another one opens…..

DEPARTING THE USA Nights of Jul 17 to Jul 25 2013

We arrived at David & Sandra's home in Evergreen on Wednesday July 17 and sold our beloved RV and home for the past 7 months just 3 days later! After all the joy Dude had given us it really was sad to see him go.

I managed to go for a couple of rides on my Trek carbon road bike with David on a 10 mile loop around his house. I nearly died, I just could not get enough air as we were 1 mile above sea level. With more sadness I sold my much loved bike the night before we left the USA.

Our last week in the USA had passed very quickly as we were kept busy selling, storing or packing into our two packs each. In between we spent a nice time with family.

We flew out of Denver on July 26 on our way to London and our new life as house sitters.

THE FLATLANDS Nights of Jul 13 to Jul 16 2013

It was now a straight drive 1,800 miles to Colorado over the next week following the Interstates that unfortunately were very rough. The I-76 into Colorado was the worst stretch of interstate we had experienced in the 20,000 miles we have driven in the USA it was just plain awful and to make matters worse we had a strong headwind. The scenery consisted of endless flat corn fields but they were all very lush. Surprising to us Aussies was that there is no irrigation and it is all naturally watered.

We spent our last night in Dude at a very dry and desolate campground in North Stirling. We were however treated to a spectacular sunset as we sat outside having dinner with a red wine.

As we pondered what we had achieved in the USA we realised just how lucky we had been and really could not have found anything better, a fitting end really.

  

THE GREAT LAKES Nights of Jul 7 to Jul 12 2013

We finally received notification that as expected our visa extension had been denied so we would now have to make a hasty 2,000 mile retreat to my David’s place in Evergreen Colorado. However, this did not stop us from having one last day of fun.

We stopped in at the Niagara Falls. We did the mandatory Lady of the Mist tour getting only slightly wet but having an absolute ball. I think we had more fun than any of the kids on board.

Niagara Falls

Lady of the Mist soaking

After lunch on board Dude and a quick dry off we then did the Cave of the Winds tour. Outfitted in a new knee length poncho and supplied water sandals we caught the elevator to the bottom of the falls and then onto the boardwalk adjacent to the American Falls.

The lower section got our feet wet as the water poured in over the boardwalk. Then it was on to the Hurricane Deck alongside the main falls to feel just how strong the wind is that the falls generate. Despite the poncho's we were absolutely soaked to the core as we could only stand in the main section of the deck for around 1 minute at a time. Needless to say we did go back 4 times laughing and carrying on like kids.

Cave of the Winds and another soaking….

At our campground that evening we sadly managed to sell our inflatable kayak which had given so much enjoyment during our all our touring around the USA. L

THE MID NORTH EAST Nights of Jul 2 to Jul 6 2013

Our journey was now at its northern extreme and we turned West leaving Maine heading into New Hampshire and the White Mountains.

We stopped at Gorham near Mount Washington for a few days over the 4th July long weekend and first up did a wonderful walk through the narrow Flume Gorge. Although only short we spent a few hours taking some of our best photographs. We were having such a good time we did the gorge part twice.

                          

  Flume Gorge

The next day we took the world’s first cog railway to the top of Mt Washington, At just over 6,000ft it is not that high compared to the Western mountains but the weather sure packs a punch. Despite being the middle of summer the temp was 25deg F lower at the top and blowing 45mph.

Mt Washington Cog Railway

Mt Washington has the worlds highest land wind speed ever recorded at over 230 mph and has 40+ days a year of hurricane force winds. It was easy to see where it got it's reputation for the worlds most inhospitable weather. 

On our drive back to camp we were treated to our final wildlife sightings. First off we saw a moose and her calf and then a black bear crossed the road in front of us.

 

MAINLY PAIN Nights of Jun 28 to Jul 1 2013

We drove into the centre of Maine for the sole purpose of hiking the last 4 days of the Appalachian Trail. We got a shuttle to the Southern End of Nahmakanta Lake and started hiking the Last 40 miles of what is known as the 100 Mile wilderness. It was raining as we started and continued lightly for most of the day. The mosquitoes attacked us as soon as we left the car and it wasn’t even the bug season yet.

Setting out into the 100 mile wilderness

As the trail follows very close to the shores of the lakes it is extremely wet and muddy most of the way. Add in very slippery rocks and a myriad of even slipperier tree roots and the walking was very tough. You could not take your eyes of the ground for a second. At 5 pm we made it to our camp for the night after 11 of the slowest miles we have ever hiked. And this was over fairly level ground!

Rainbow Stream campground and a place to dry out

The next day started with a crossing of the swollen Rainbow Stream on two skinny tree logs. To the cheers of fellow campers we somehow we managed to get across without getting wet. It was then more of the same only a storm passed over around lunch time and the rain poured down. The AT Creek (as we were now calling it) turned into the AT river as we walked up and over a low hill along a now running water course. Any attempt at keeping our feet dry evaporated so we just walked through the puddles. At one stage I became stuck in the mud and had to use my hiking poles as leverage to get out, to a loud sucking noise. We arrived at our shelter for the night at around 4pm just before another thunder storm passed over and the heavens opened up again. We had done 11.5 even slower miles today.

Water, water everywhere…..

The 3rd day as we eventually walked out of the wilderness was a beautiful day with no rain. It was actually very pleasant and a lot easier the closer we got to Katahdin Stream campsite. We finally came to a sign marking the end of the 100 mile wilderness and some of the hardest backpacking we had ever done. On exiting the wilderness we found civilization and stopped for coffee, a bacon and egg roll and sat in the sun drying our socks.

As we only had to cover 9.5 Miles toady and it was mostly dry we were in camp by 2pm and quickly hung everything we owned out to dry.

The fun had really only just begun as the nest day we were up at 5.15am and at 7am we were at the trail head for the final 5.1 mile AT climb up to Baxter Peak on Mount Katahdin.

Mt Katahdin Baxter Peak Trail profile. This ought to be fun….

The first 1.1 miles were very pleasant going but after this the trail rose a further 3,500 feet in 4 miles. Once out of the tree line at the trail was a series of white lines painted on the large boulders. Some of these had steel rungs to aid climbing but were very difficult to reach. Twice Sandra had to use my knee to get a boost then I had to haul myself up. We didn’t stop to think how we were going to get down.  We passed a hiker that had been struck by a large rock that came loose and was slowly making his way down.

Rest stop at the “Tablelands”

After a short level section at the Tablelands it was more boulder scrambling to the top. It took us 5 hours to climb the 4,187ft in 5.1 miles to reach the very impressive – NOT – sign marking the top of Baxter Peak and the official end of the Appalachian Trail.

The official end of the Appalachian Trail

With thunderstorms forecast we didn’t stay long and began the equally arduous climb down, much of which was done on our hands and asses.

At the Tableland we passed a guy with a baby in a back carrier on his way up. DUMB ASS (He would later get a fine and a summons to appear in court by the rangers).

It was with some relief that we made it back into the tree line and a more gentle descent with still no sign of the thunderstorms.

We could hear a helicopter nearby and shortly came to the injured hiker we had passed earlier. In 4 hours He had descended one mile. Unfortunately with nowhere safe for an extraction He would have to continue walker to a lower location. He would be extracted about 30 minutes later. This was the 3rd of approximately 30 such rescues each year on the mountain.

Just follow the white lines, what white paint……

We arrived back in camp exactly 10 hours after we had set off. After a relaxing hot cup of tea and a quick dinner we climbed into our tent for an early night. Aaaaagh.

We were now on borrowed time as we now expected the immigration department to reject our tourist visa application as we had waited too long before submitting.

MAINLY MAINE Nights of Jun 14 to Jun 27 2013

We crossed into Maine and into Acadia National Park where we stayed for 8 days. We spent a day hiking into the interior of the park with excellent views of the coast. We had gone the wrong way around the Bee Hives and had to come down the very steep 500ft drop over rungs set into the rock. Half way down and a group of rangers were attempting to rescue a climber who had become distressed. It was a very warm day so when we got to Sandy Beach I braved the very cold water and went for a body surf....albeit very briefly.

The Bee Hives in Acadia National Park

The next day we got on our mountain bikes and rode 20 miles along the very impressive gravel carriage ways. 80% of the park was gifted by JD Rockefeller JR who fancied himself as a road builder. So no expense was spared on the roads and the bridges which have stood the test of time. It was a beautiful day riding under the full canopy of the trees over quite hilly terrain and lake shores. We met a very nice couple from Pennsylvania who showed us all the local sites as they are regular visitors to the park. We ate dinner with them at a roadside lobster pound. This time only $16 for a lobster dinner including clams.

 Pink Lady Slipper

Our initial impressions of the national park were not that high but by the time we left we had come to appreciate the natural beauty and the difficulties imposed reclaiming private lands for use as public parks.

NEW ENGLAND Nights of Jun 7 to Jun 14 2013

After New York we followed the coast stopping for an extremely wet night on the coast in Connecticut and another in Newport, Rhode Island. Newport is a beautiful harbor town with boats of all shapes and sizes, no wonder it is a yachting haven. As we walked along the cliffs facing the sea we discovered the area contains 64 mansions dating back to the 1800’s. This is obviously where the rich from New York and Boston came to play.

We did ask for a waterfront campsite!

Newport, Rhode Island

We continued along the coast into Massachusetts and ventured out to Cape Cod and Falmouth which was encased in fog and so reminiscent of the English seaside. We caught the ferry over to Martha’s Vineyard for the day. As luck would have it the fog cleared and it was a very nice day. We were also fortunate to arrive 1 week before the start of the 2 month tourist season which turns the island into pure chaos. It was here that we had our first lobster – at $20 for a good sized lobster, corn on the cob, a bowl of clam chowder and fries it was a real bargain.

Martha’s Vineyard

We passed through Plymouth on our way to Boston and made a quick stop at the famous rock that the Pilgrims supposedly used to step ashore.

Plymouth Rock

In Boston we spent the entire day in the city walking the freedom Trail. This was a very neat red brick line set in the pavement and traced out all the points of historical interest including; The Granary & Kings Chapel burying ground contained the graves of John Hancock, Samual Adams and Paul Revere and Paul Revere’s house.

Grave of Samuel Adams

Grave of Paul Reever

The trail finished at the docks where we toured the very impressively maintained 1800’s warship the USS Constitution – The oldest warship afloat still in active naval commission. Nelson’s HMS Victory in England is the oldest in commission but it is in permanent dry dock.

USS Constitution

Site of the Boston Tea Party

It was after 6 by the time we came to the spot of the Boston Tea party, where rebels through all the tea overboard rather than pay the import taxes that would all make their way back to England. Not surprisingly the museum was closed. So after a full day on our feet we made our way back to the station to catch the train home.

NEW YORK Nights of May 30 to Jun 6 2013

New York was just as grand as Washington, the same but then different. We stayed at Liberty Harbor Marina which also caters for RV's and is right on the water across from Manhattan in Jersey City. We could even see the Statue of Liberty from Dude’s front door.

We caught the nearby subway the short distance under the Hudson River over to Manhattan Island each day and again walked everywhere.

One of the two 9/11 memorials at the site of the old World Trade Center

We eventually saw the new 9/11 memorial after a 40 minute queue and airport type security checks. The memorial consists of two sunken waterfalls in the holes left by the two towers. In typical American still no expense had been spared and it was very grand and well done.

New York by day

We spent 4 hours walking the entire 2.5 mile length of Central Park. It was amazing how quiet and peaceful it was even though we were right in the middle of Manhattan. We had to keep reminding ourselves where we were.

Central Park looking out over Gotham Hall

We walked through SOHO, Little Italy, Uptown, Downtown, Midtown and lower Manhattan. We passed the icon institutions of Wall St and the NY Stock Exchange, the Chrysler building, Broadway and ended up in Times Square. It was amazing the number and size of all the TV screens crammed into what is such a tiny space.

Times Square

Crowd entertainment in Times Square

Sandra managed to join in the crowd entertainment by playing drums along with about 50 others who were led by a drum master. It was a real hoot, although she did end up with bruised fingers.

We walked along the up market stores of 5^th Avenue which each trying to beat the other in who has the grandest or most lavish shop front. At one point we got caught in a huge downpour and sought shelter under some building scaffold. Moments later all the storm water drain covers starting rattling from the trapped air pressure reminiscent of scenes from Godzilla. That night we went to the top of the Empire State building to watch the sunset, how romantic is that. Unfortunately, hundreds of others had the same idea and it was packed but we did stay till it got dark around 11pm.

New York sunset from the top of the Empire State building

For a change we walked across the Brooklyn Bridge and then caught the subway out through Brooklyn to the Brighton Beach boardwalk. As we wandered inland through little Russia we quickly realized this was the scene of all those famous movie scenes where cars are chased underneath the overhead railway lines.

The Rockefeller Center

After our week in New York we had come to really like it. Manhattan was nowhere near the congested, busy city with everyone rushing everywhere that we had expected. Instead it had a certain quiet charm with nice housing neighborhoods and plenty of quiet parks. One thing it does have is a memorial to just about everything including the Irish Potato Famine!

Wall St Subway Station

The best deal in New York is the Staten Island Ferry which is free so we did the half hour ride across and then immediately back again. This gave us our best view of the Statue of Liberty which was closed for repair.

The drive out of New York around Manhattan and through the Bronx, which really did look as bad as its reputation, was murder. It took over 2 hours to drive the 40 miles into Connecticut even though we were on the Interstates the whole way and it was mid day.

WASHINGTON DC Nights of May 20 to May 29 2013

We picked up Dude after the repairs which really were well done. The fight with our insurance company was awful they would only pay for the repairs not the out of pocket expenses as we were not sold that $11 option the people we bought the policy from who despite using the companies name where just brokers, another valuable lesson learnt. We hastily got out of Kentucky and drove straight back to Washington DC.

The rear and front of the White House

Our RV Park was only 10 miles north of the capitol and had a bus stop inside so it was easy getting into town each day. Washington itself is very easy to get around especially with everything in such a small area.

Once in town we walked everywhere from the Capitol at one end of the mall to the Potomac River at the other end and the White House in between. We even drove passed the Pentagon and the CIA headquarters at Langley. The later was surrounded by heavy security so we couldn’t even see any of the buildings behind the lush forest.

The Capitol Building

We visited the impressive Smithsonian Air & Space museum one day and the Natural History museum the next along with some of the other eleven that are all along the Capitol Mall. These were fantastic containing pretty well the best of everything, from the Wright Brothers plane and Apollo 11 command module to the Hope Diamond.

We also went out to the annex near Dulles Airport which has items too large to display in town including the Space Shuttle Colombia, an Air France concord and the Enola Gay. We did a detour to the front of the CIA headquarters at Langley but with its imposing security we only got as far as the gate and couldn't see anything inside the denseley forested compound. All the Smithsonian Museums have FREE entry, what a bargain.

Space Shuttle Discovery

The inside of Library of Congress is spectacular with so much marble and we got a look inside the even more spectacular domed reading room. We toured the Capitol Bldg which was just even grander including the magnificent central domed rotunda. We even got to sit in the Senate and House or Reps chambers despite being advised we would have to speak to our senate rep to get a pass. They were probably just handing them out as neither were actually in session.

                   

               Library of Congress                                    Central Dome of the Capitol building

We also did the self guided tour of the Supreme Court and had lunch in the judges cafeteria underneath. We again got a look inside the main court and had lunch in their cafeteria as the judges were not sitting.

On a nice sunny day we walked the entire length of the 2 mile central mall to visit all the monuments and memorials. Unfortunately the Washington memorial was closed for repair but everything else was open.

                      Lincoln Memorial                                          J Edgar Hoover (FBI) building